The LOST Recipes of The Black Pitmaster

In 1840, an enslaved Black woman, Mary John, cooked a July 4th barbecue that left a lasting impression, showcasing unparalleled expertise and authority in a role where she was often marginalized. The story of barbecue is deeply rooted in the history of enslaved individuals across the plantations in the Deep South. These enslaved people combined their rich culinary traditions with those of Indigenous peoples to create a completely new culinary art form.

To understand the origins of barbecue, we must first look back to the Native Americans, who mastered the art of slow-cooking meat over an open flame long before European settlers arrived. With the onset of the transatlantic slave trade, a fusion of culinary practices emerged. Enslaved Africans brought their own rich culinary traditions to the Americas and transformed the simple act of cooking meat over a fire into an art emphasizing slow-cooking and distinct flavor profiles.

Spanish explorers were some of the first Europeans to encounter Indigenous peoples, like the Taíno, who would slow-cook meat on wooden structures over an open fire, a method they called "barbacoa." This intrigued the explorers so much that they incorporated the practice into their vocabulary, eventually evolving into what we call barbecue today. As Spanish explorers brought this technique to North America, it was adopted by Indigenous peoples and English colonizers alike.

Historical accounts from December 1540, near modern-day Tupelo, Mississippi, document Hernando de Soto and the Chickasaw tribe sharing a pork feast using the Barbacoa technique. By the 16th and 17th centuries, barbecue was becoming a staple food practice in Southern America, evidenced by paintings depicting Native Americans using wooden frames over burning logs to cook various meats.

During slavery, Black pitmasters played a crucial role in preparing food for large gatherings on Southern plantations. They displayed incredible skill and mastery of resource management while systematically oppressed. By the 1830s, it was widely believed that only Black cooks could properly conduct a barbecue event, reinforcing their essential role in Southern cuisine.

Mary John, born in 1780 under French rule in Arkansas, was a prime example of this skill. Despite being enslaved, she managed to command a team and orchestrated a significant barbecue event on July 4th, 1840, in Pine Bluff, Arkansas, showcasing her authority and expertise. Later that year, she purchased her freedom for $800, a sum equivalent to about $29,000 today, and went on to establish herself as a renowned entrepreneur known for exceptional food.

Despite their harsh circumstances, enslaved Black cooks were adept at transforming the least desirable cuts of meat into delicious dishes using their extensive knowledge of seasoning and slow-cooking methods. This practice became so widespread that the role of "pitmaster," initially synonymous with Black cooks, evolved as a recognized term by the 19th century for teams dedicated to perfecting barbecue.

The Emancipation brought significant opportunities for formerly enslaved individuals in the culinary arts. Many became freelance barbecue cooks, opening eateries and catering events. Barbecue became a symbol of community and social activism as it was showcased at festivals, political rallies, and church gatherings.

As the 20th century unfolded, Black pitmasters had a significant influence on the expanding barbecue industry, especially in Southern states. The Great Migration saw the introduction of rich barbecue traditions to urban areas such as Chicago, New York, and Detroit, further transforming the country's culinary landscape.

Despite the growing recognition of their contributions, the narrative began to shift as white individuals increasingly dominated the business, capitalizing on the experience and expertise of Black pitmasters. A noteworthy historical example is John Callaway, a white sheriff, whose barbecue fame obscured the significant contributions of Black laborers behind the scenes.

However, Black pitmasters like Henry Perry, often called the father of Kansas City barbecue, continued to leave their mark on American cuisine. Perry's innovative approach laid the foundation for Kansas City's world-renowned barbecue scene. Yet, he remains the only African American inducted into the Barbecue Hall of Fame among its 27 members, underscoring the continued struggle for recognition faced by Black culinary experts.

Over time, Black-owned barbecue establishments have seen a resurgence. Notable figures like Rodney Scott, a James Beard award recipient, exemplify the success modern pitmasters can achieve. This recognition highlights how excellence and dedication have led to rightful acknowledgment of Black contributions to American cuisine.

As we enjoy the smoky flavors of barbecue today, let's remember and honor those enslaved individuals who stood over the flames, carving out their place in American history with each tender cut of meat.